I should have posted this earlier (before the diff rebuild section), but just so you know, the Haynes manual is wrong about which way to remove the rear axle. (I found out the hard way). You should be tapping on the brake side (RH side) and the axle will come out toward the LH side of the bike. I wonder how many people have bashed the crap out of their axles (and ruined the threads in the process), trying to take the axle out the wrong way.
Thursday, 29 December 2011
New Top End Gaskets
For some reason, these pictures keep uploading in the wrong order. Here it is going back together. |
Cam chain |
Cam chain tensioner |
The chain guide will come out through the opening first, then the head can come off without having to remove the engine from the frame. |
Put a piece of wire on the cam chain so that you can pull it back out easily. |
All cleaned up. |
Rear Diff - Removing Bearings and Seals
This collar and bearing required a LOT of force to remove. (Hydraulic press). |
Welded a washer onto the race and used a press. |
Most bearings & seals came out with an arbor press and various sizes of round bar. |
Welded a piece of flat bar into the outer race and pressed out from other side. |
Used a puller to remove the needle bearing outer race. There is also a small hole in the back side of the casting and you might be able to use a punch to get this one out instead of a puller. |
Identification - Haynes Manual is Wrong
The Haynes manual was wrong about the model/type. Ignore that section of the book and double check your specs below:
Big Bear 350 Model List | ||
YFM350FW | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1989 | YFM350FWW | 3HN2 |
1990 | YFM350FWA | 3HN4 |
1991 | YFM350FWB | 3HN9 |
1992 | YFM350FWD | 3HNB |
1993 | YFM350FWE | 3HNE |
1994 | YFM350FWF | 3HNH |
1995 | YFM350FWG | 3HNL |
1996 | YFM350FWH | 3HNS |
YFM350FWB | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1997 | YFM35FJ | 4WU2 |
1998 | YFM350FWBK | 4WU7 |
1999 | YFM350FWBL | 5FT3 |
YFM350FWU | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1988 | N/A | 2HR0 |
YFM350U | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1996 | YFM350UH | 4UH2 |
1997 | YFM350UJ | 4UH5 |
1998 | YFM350UK | 4UH8 |
YFM350UBL | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1999 | N/A | 5FE3 |
YFM350FWSP | ||
Special | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1997 | YFM350FSJ | 3HNV |
YFM350FW | ||
Special Edition | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1995 | YFM350FSPG | 3HNP |
YFM350FWSP | ||
Special Edition | ||
Year | Model | Type |
1996 | YFM350FSPH | 3HNU |
1998 | YFM350FWSPK | 4UM3 |
1999 | YFM350FWSPL | 4UM6 |
2000 | YFM35FSM | 4UM8 |
Broken Idler Gear Shaft - Solution
Solution: I had a machinist friend make a new shaft with extra nubs on each end, 8mm OD x 12mm. There were pilot holes in the bottom of each broken boss measuring 7.5mm OD. (See previous pictures). I used a collar with a 12mm OD (size of the shaft) and 8mm ID, clamped the collar into the broken boss, and used an 8mm hand reamer to open up the holes and adjust the fit of the new shaft. The collar kept everything in line and the engine case slides on perfectly. Now let's see if it breaks again! I don't know the original cause of the broken castings, as the starter clutch is smooth and the gears all look good. (??)
Yamaha Big Bear Rebuild
Due to a lack of information on the web about certain aspects of fixing up a Yamaha Big Bear, I have decided to post some info on this subject, with the hope that it will help someone out. I am not an expert or anything, but I do enjoy tinkering in the garage. My latest project is a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 that I will be fixing up over the winter. I hope some of these posts will be helpful to someone who is taking on a similar project.
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